Zimbabwe

Great Zimbabwe gave a country its name and its proof: that a sophisticated civilisation built in stone here long before anyone from outside thought to ask. The ruins sit in the hills of Masvingo, still not fully explained, still impressive in that particular way of things built to last. Further west, the Zambezi drops over a basalt cliff and becomes Victoria Falls; in the east, the Nyanga highlands hold a cool that surprises. Zimbabwe is a country that has been through a great deal, and whose people have a warmth that context makes remarkable.

Our guide is being written from the ground up, with the time this place deserves.

We are still gathering the notes that make a guide worth keeping: Harare's art scene, Zambezi canoe routes, ancient ruins and the guesthouses run by people who stayed and rebuilt.