Zambia

Victoria Falls is half Zambia's, and Zambia's half is the better half - you stand at the edge, fully exposed to the spray, with nothing between you and the gorge. This is how Zambia does things: direct, unmediated, without the infrastructure that keeps experience at arm's length. South Luangwa is one of the finest wildlife areas on the continent, famous for walking safaris - meaning you encounter things at ground level, on foot, which concentrates the attention wonderfully.

Our guide is being written from the ground up, with the time this place deserves.

We are still gathering the notes that make a guide worth keeping: walking safari routes, river camps, flood plain timings and the bush meals that taste different when eaten at ground level.