Sudan

Sudan has more pyramids than Egypt. That single fact recalibrates most people's understanding of North Africa's history - the Kushite kingdoms of Meroe built their own pyramid fields along the Nile and were trading with Rome when Rome was still deciding what it was. Khartoum sits at the confluence of the Blue and White Niles, a meeting that is visible and genuinely moving. The country has been through enormous upheaval in recent years and access is currently limited and difficult.

Travel advisory Sudan has been experiencing serious armed conflict since 2023. Check current conditions before planning travel.

Our guide is being written from the ground up, with the time this place deserves.

We are still gathering the notes that make a guide worth keeping - and this one, more than most, requires waiting for the right moment to tell it.