Kenya

The Rift Valley splits Kenya open like a spine, and everything interesting happens along its edges. Nairobi, one of the few cities where you can watch a lion from a skyscraper window. The Mara, where the migration arrives like a debt being paid. The coast, where nine centuries of Swahili trade left a cuisine and an architecture that belong to no single origin. Kenya resists the single story more stubbornly than most.

Our guide is being written from the ground up, with the time this place deserves.

We are still gathering the notes that make a guide worth keeping: game camps, Swahili kitchens, migration timings and the Nairobi neighbourhoods that do not make the brochures.