Indonesia

Indonesia is 17,000 islands, 270 million people, 700 languages, and the fourth most populous country on earth - a scale that makes generalisations not just imprecise but meaningless. Bali is one thing; Sumatra is another; Sulawesi's Torajan highlands are a third; the Banda Islands in the Maluku, where the entire global spice trade once converged, are something else entirely. Java alone contains more history, more density and more culinary complexity than most countries manage across their entire territory. The rule is simple: go further, stay longer, eat everything.

Our guide is being written from the ground up, with the time this place deserves.

We are still gathering the notes that make a guide worth keeping: Javanese kraton routes, Sulawesi highland stays, Banda Island spice history and the warungs on every island that serve the food the resorts are trying to approximate.