Ghana

Ghana has a particular self-possession. The first sub-Saharan country to gain independence, it carries that fact with ease rather than weight. Accra is loud and entrepreneurial and full of good food. The forts along the Cape Coast hold history that demands to be stood in front of, not read about from a distance. In the north, the mud mosques of Larabanga have been repaired by the same families for five hundred years. Everything here has been thought about.

Our guide is being written from the ground up, with the time this place deserves.

We are still gathering the notes that make a guide worth keeping: Cape Coast forts, Accra's chop bars, kente villages and the northern routes that most visitors never reach.